Evidence
What the evidence shows
Niacinamide's drying effects are typically a result of overuse or high concentration, not an inherent property of the ingredient itself. At the right concentration, it actually supports hydration.
Using 10%+ niacinamide?
Likely the cause; try 2-5%Using niacinamide without moisturizer?
Add a moisturizer to your routineSkin already irritated?
Heal the barrier first
Use this section to decide
Does this advice apply to me?
Find the concern or goal closest to yours, then use the fit signal to decide how much weight to give this guide.If your goal is
Drying potentialUsually relevant- Fit signal
- Often useful
Low at 2-5%
If your goal is
Drying potentialDepends- Fit signal
- Possible fit
Higher at 10%+
If your goal is
SolutionUsually relevant- Fit signal
- Often useful
Lower concentration
If your goal is
Must use withUsually relevant- Fit signal
- Often useful
Moisturizer
Research notes already in this guide
- Studies show that 2-5% niacinamide improves barrier function and hydration.
- Higher concentrations are less studied and have higher rates of irritation.
- Niacinamide's barrier-supporting effects are well-documented in dermatological research.
- Reactions to niacinamide are more common at concentrations above 5%.
Practical use
How to use it
Check your concentration
If you're using 10%+ niacinamide and experiencing dryness, switch to a 2-5% formula.
Use a moisturizer
Apply a hydrating moisturizer after niacinamide to lock in moisture.
Reduce frequency
If dryness persists, reduce use to every other day and gradually increase.
Safety
Side effects and cautions
- Using too high a concentration
Start with 2-5% niacinamide before trying higher strengths.
- Not using a moisturizer
Niacinamide supports barrier function but works best with a moisturizer.
- Using it on a compromised barrier
Repair the barrier before introducing niacinamide.
- Dryness and tightness
Occasional · Reduce concentration or frequency
- Flaking and peeling
Rare · Take a break from niacinamide
- Redness and irritation
Occasional · Stop use and consult a dermatologist
Fit
Who should be careful
- Those who think niacinamide is universally drying
Worth noting
Small details that can change the answer
- Barrier Support. At 2-5%, niacinamide supports barrier function and hydration.
- High Concentration Risk. 10%+ niacinamide can cause irritation and dryness in some skin types.
- Ceramide Production. Niacinamide increases ceramide production, which improves moisture retention.
- Moisturizer Needed. Even with niacinamide, a moisturizer is essential for hydration.
Niacinamide can cause dryness in some people, especially at high concentrations.
At 2-5%, niacinamide typically supports barrier function and hydration.
Using a moisturizer alongside niacinamide is essential.
If you experience dryness, reduce the frequency or concentration.
Niacinamide can be beneficial for hydration when used correctly.
Definition
What is dryness and how does niacinamide affect it?
Skin dryness is characterized by a compromised barrier and insufficient moisture in the outer skin layers. Niacinamide typically improves this by increasing ceramide production and strengthening the barrier. However, in some cases, it can contribute to dryness.
- At 2-5%: Generally improves barrier function and hydration
- At 10%+: Can cause irritation, leading to barrier disruption and dryness
- On compromised skin: Any concentration can cause dryness if the barrier is already damaged
- Without moisturizer: Niacinamide works best with a moisturizer to lock in hydration
Science
Why niacinamide can sometimes cause dryness
Niacinamide works by increasing ceramide synthesis, which strengthens the barrier. However, this process requires energy and resources from the skin. If the barrier is already compromised, the skin may struggle to utilize niacinamide effectively, leading to inflammation and further barrier disruption. Additionally, some people are simply sensitive to niacinamide, particularly at high concentrations.
- Ceramide Synthesis
- The production of ceramides, which are essential lipids that hold skin cells together and prevent moisture loss.
- Barrier Function
- The skin's ability to protect against environmental damage and prevent moisture loss.
Dos Donts
Niacinamide dos and don'ts for preventing dryness
Do
Lower concentrations are effective and less irritating.
Locks in hydration and supports the barrier.
Improves absorption and hydration.
Avoid
High concentrations increase the risk of dryness and irritation.
Can worsen barrier disruption.
Niacinamide works best with adequate hydration.
Questions
Frequently asked questions
Is niacinamide good for dry skin?
Yes, at the right concentration (2-5%), niacinamide supports barrier function and can improve hydration.
Should I use a moisturizer after niacinamide?
Yes, a moisturizer is recommended to lock in hydration and support the barrier.
Can niacinamide cause more dryness than hydration?
For some people, yes, particularly if using high concentrations or on a compromised barrier.
How long does niacinamide dryness last?
It usually resolves within a few days of reducing concentration or frequency.
References
Sources
The notes below are drawn from the evidence already cited in this guide. They are not a complete bibliography.
- Studies show that 2-5% niacinamide improves barrier function and hydration.
- Higher concentrations are less studied and have higher rates of irritation.
- Niacinamide's barrier-supporting effects are well-documented in dermatological research.
- Reactions to niacinamide are more common at concentrations above 5%.